FUN & COMPLEX
Region of France: Languedoc-Roussillon
Producer: La Sorga
Vintage: 2020
Vitigno: Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir macerated for around 3 weeks on skins and aged in Clayver (stoneware amphora). Pure, pristine fruit that sits somewhere between light-medium with juicy undertones and minerality "glou glou" is drinking wine the for the people.
Antony Tortul started La Sorga in 2008 as a pure négociant in Languedoc-Roussillon, sourcing organic or biodynamic grapes from old vineyards from Gaillac to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, the Languedoc being his favourite vinous playground. Antony is extremely rigorous in his selection of vineyards and is always looking for exceptional terroirs. He works with over 40 vineyards of different soils, grape varieties and vine ages (between 25 to 110 years old) ... little wonder that he produces so many labels (and I only import a few of them!) Antony vinifies in his cellar in Béziers, with only wild fermentation, no fining or filtration nor added SO2
Service tips: Slightly chilled
Region of Italy: Piemonte
Producer: Cascina Tavjin
Vintage: 2019
Vitigno: Grignolino
This lable is dedicated to Ottavio, Nadia's dad.
Grignolino from young vines planted over sand, silt and limestone. Destemmed grapes macerated for two months in stainless steel before being pressed off info cement tanks. Very pale red with amazing flavours of blood orange and chinotto.
The name of this variety comes from the word "grignole", dialect for pips as this grape presents numerous seeds, more than most other varieties. Light in colour but with a great tannin structure, both from skin & pips, this is a very much loved grape by piedmontese people. Grignolino is stimulating, full of aromas and flavours of berry, herbs and spices with bright acidity and freshness.
Service tips: Serve it at 14 C with Battuta di Manzo "Beef Tartare". Beetroot tartare and button mushroom.
Region of Italy: Piemonte
Producer: Cascina Tavjin
Vintage: 2020
Vitigno: Slarina
This wine is from a younger vineyard planted over clay at altitude in Pinerolo. The vineyard, farmed by a friend of Nadia’s, is planted with ten different varieties, as well as plenty of fruit trees. Destemmed grapes, fermented for two months on skins. Very perfumed wine with lovely herbs and spices.
The name might come from the Piedmontese word sinréna (in Italian cenerina, a reference to the bloom that commonly appears on this red grape’s skin (ceneri means ashes in Italian, hence the association with bloom, the powdery deposit sometimes found on the berries). This variety was nearly extinct after as many plantings were removed in favor of Barbera in the early 1900s.
Service tips: Battuta di Fassone
Region of Italy: Piemonte
Producer: Cascina Tavjin
Vintage: 2020
Vitigno: Ruche’
The grapes are fermented whole bunch for about two months before resting in concrete. This comes from younger vines and the first parcel to be harvested. Fresh and dry !
A study of Ruche’s DNA in 2016 revealed that closely relates to two typically northern Italian varieties, Croatina and the now extinct Malvasia Aromatica di Parma. This variety is mid to early ripening, accumulate sugars well and, despite the low acidity it retains a good share of malic acid that gives the wine freshness. It has got plenty of tannins, that generate the wine’s structure. The taste is unique and particular, structured and generous. Semi aromatic style with notes of faded rose, violet and spices (pepper for instance) on top of fruit like blackberry, raspberry and ripe plums. T
Service tips:
Region of Italy: Piemonte
Producer: Cascina Tavjin
Vintage: 2020
Vitigno: Ruchè
Cascina Tavijn's "Teresa" is a pure Ruché grape of Nadia Verrua. A label always dedicated to her Mother Teresa. After the manual harvest with careful selection, the grapes are destemming, and the spontaneous alcoholic fermentation takes place in steel containers with maceration on the skins for about 2 months to finish for over a year in an old barrel. An authentic and true Monferrato which smells of freshly pressed grapes, cut grass and wild blackberries. A rich and light sip at the same time, concentrated and deep with a rustic finish. A freshly squeeze countryside smell in the glass. Nadia In her early years, she produced wines under the region's DOC and DOCG labels, but has progressively abandoned these designations to free herself of their limitations.
Service tips: Serve it at 14 C with Tagliatelle Bolognese. Chinese mild Sichuan hotpot.
Region of Italy: Lazio
Producer: Le Coste
Vintage: 2022
Vitigno: Predominantly Sangiovese with little Ciliegiolo, Syrah, Merlot and other local varieties
After harvest, the red grapes are left on to macerate on their skins for about 20 days, during this time fermentation takes place. Dry, juicy , cherry fruit driven flavours and a cool luscious/viscous feeling on the palate. A little funky in the end. More than totally enjoyable.
Service tips: Serve it at 12 C with Cured meat and cornichon. Grilled vegetable with homemade mayo and ketchup.
Region of Italy: Abruzzo
Producer: Luca Bevilacqua
Vintage: 2020
Vitigno: Montepulciano
Luca Bevilacqua is a young winemaker (and professional sommelier since 20 years) based in Atessa Val di Sangro, Abruzzo. 2020 is his 4th vintage and it’s already boom!
100% Montepulciano destemmed and fermented in fiiberglass with a submerged cap for about two weeks, then aged in stainless steel. Intense ruby colour, ripe cherry and blackberry with prominent spice notes.
Service tips: With “tacconcelli ai fagioli”, little square handmade pasta with tomato sauce, and black bean slow-cooked in clay pot next to charcoal fireplace.
Region of Italy: Lazio
Producer: Le Coste
Vintage: 2020
Vitigno: Sangiovese (locally called Greghetto)
Gianmarco and Clementine met in France while working for the legendary Bruno (Gerard Schueller) in Alsace. After years of working together, they decided to move back to Gianmarco’s village of Gradoli on the shores of Lake Bolsena in Lazio on these volcanic soils. The giant wine-press has talked a lot of Etna and his volcanic soil, perhaps next will be Gradoli and the Le Coste Rosso a benchmark Sangiovese of Le Coste. Dark cherry, firm tannins and beautiful acidity, straight and complex. Nicely savory with mineral grippiness on the palate. Pure, vivid and delicious with nice complexity. Wine needs time. Form the old vines of the property in massal selection. Old barrel aging.
Service tips: Serve it at 12 C with a hen in tomato sauce.
Region of Italy: Sardegna
Producer: Panevino
Vintage: 2016
Vitigno: more than 20 varieties
From the pressing of all the vinifications of 2016. The name means in local language the voice of the skin. Gianfranco is having fun again with a name and a label, making us reflect on the versatility of a term which, despite the national languages, always has the same meaning: Boxi e Croxiu is the act of imprinting a character and an identity in wine as well as the worlds in the printed paper . A true wine, in the Panevino style, Mediterranean, intense and immense.
Service tips: Maialetto with friends.
Region of Spain: Conca de Barbera DO “Catalonia”
Producer: Joan Ramon Escoda and Carmen Sanahuja
Vintage: 2021
Vitigno: 50% Sumoll and 50% Merlot
Cabernet franc blended with sumo and merlot in equal parts, aged in a large format very old Spanish clay amphora. Joan Ramon he also co-founded the ‘Brutal’ label which invites winemakers from all over the world to create SO2 free wines under one label. He is a true champion of the Spanish natural wine movement and you can really feel his passion when experiencing the wines.
Service Tips: Serve at 16C with pepper steak and seaweed butter or “Cap I Pota”, a local stew of offal, tripe, ham hocks or veal head simmered until soft.
Region of Spain: Conca de Barbera DO “Catalonia”
Producer: Joan Ramon Escoda and Carmen Sanahuja
Vintage: 2017
Vitigno: Carignan (locally known as Samso) and Grenache
Completely de-stemmed, the grapes undergo a 10 day maceration before being transferred to neutral French oak tonneau for ageing. So much minerality and complexity is packed into the wine. A real treat! JR founded the Natural Wine Producers Association (PVN) where he actively participates in numerous events and tastings focused on natural wines from Spain and abroad, connecting likeminded individuals who share similar ideas around farming, winemaking, and philosophy.
Service Tips: Serve at 16C with calcot onions cooked over open fire wrapped in paper and served along side a bowl of romesco sauce (red peppers blitzed with nuts) or a simple lamb rack cooked in the oven.
Region of France: Padern in Corbières (Languedoc/Roussillon)
Producer: Maziere (Fabrice Monnin)
Vintage: 2015
Vitigno: Carignan
After many years running the well-known wine bar Les Zinszins du Vin in Besançon, Fabrice & Momoko Monnin moved to Padern. They took over ‘Maziere' from the Labouygues family making their first vintage in 2013. The vines all average between 60-100 years old, with some of the oldest planted in 1902. The grapes are processed through a vertical press and aged in old barrels. Vinification is done separately depending on grape variety and each barrel ages differently. Fabrice & Momoko pay specific attention to each barrel, not always topping them up. Fabrice explains how the similar soil characters to that of the Jura in Padern assist in the development of a ‘flor’ of yeast, which results in a very carefully controlled intentional oxidation of the wine. As a result this wine shows a unique singularity and purity with depth, concentration and complexity alongside elegance, freshness and an extreme drinkability.
Service tips: Serve it at 16 C with same charcoal grilled game meat.
Region of Italy: Piemonte, Roero
Producer: Benotti Rosavica
Vintage: 2024
Vitigno: Nebbiolo
This is the style of Langhe Nebbiolo I have been looking for for years: a lighter and younger Nebbiolo with no oak as was traditional in this area ( we are in Roero, Langhe) according to some books from the 1800s. The soils here are sandier than in the southern part of Langhe and as a result, the wines have a little less shoulder but very pretty perfumes.
This Nebbiolo goes under an 8 days maceration in cement with very few pumps over, in order to avoid too much extraction; then finishes to ferment and age in cement.
This is a tiny producer I had the luck to meet through our common friend Olek Bondonio; The two family vineyards, Bric in Priocca and San Michele in Govone are both located at about 250m a.s.l and together comprise a little under 1 ha; here Nebbiolo was co-planted with Barbera and Dolcetto - a common practice of the old days - but the different varieties are and always have been harvested and processed at different times.